The realm of RC has many different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not always mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is better than rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I needed to scoop one approximately see what all of the hoopla was with this drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO MAKES IT: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Simply How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for easy learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or on the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A lot of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has quite a bit going for it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in at the very inexpensive price. Handling is great too once you get used to the kit setup, plus it accepts an incredibly wide range of body styles. There’s also a huge amount of tunability for individuals who like to tinker, so this car should grow along as the skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It provides cutouts at the base to the front and back diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these can be used for mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find a number of left empty. They may be employed to control chassis flex, although not using the stock top deck; an optional you must be found. The layout is comparable to a regular touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and lastly the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are easily accessible and replaceable with just a few turns of some screws.
? Other than a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. Just one A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are being used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to take care of camber and roll while the front uses an interesting, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? Something that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious quantity of steering throw they already have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so when near the edges from the chassis as possible. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I wanted an excellent servo to keep up with the continual countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Without needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 relies on a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A massive, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, in which the front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high over the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow using a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To present the D4 some beauty, I opted for 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This really is a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick pair of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, having said that i do remember an approach I used a while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white around the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the outside by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I really like the last result … plus it was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!
ON THE TRACK
Just for this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I found myself heading there to complete a picture shoot for another vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and get some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is pretty amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw can be a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference through the parts. Even CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look a little bit funny together with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the appropriate direction. This really is, partly, on account of the awesome handling of the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, you are able to control the angle of attack and the sideways motion through any corner. I discovered Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to accomplish just that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to change the angle of the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Add more throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit as well as the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, as well as the Novak system is made for just that. I have done have to be just a little creative using the install of the system on account of only a little space in the chassis, but overall it figured out great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for some time, it can do have a little getting used to understanding that an automobile losing grip and sliding is the correct way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you obtain it, it’s beautiful. Having a car and pitching it sideways using a sweeper, while keeping the nose pointed in at less than several inches from the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of hand thing, and also the D4 will it wonderfully. The kit setup is great, but if you are such as you require more of something anything there’s a lot of things to adjust. I just enjoyed the vehicle together with the kit setup plus it was just a matter of a battery pack or two before I used to be swinging the back across the hairpins, across the carousel and back and forth through the chicane. I never had a chance to strap battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.
There’s not a whole lot you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all that fast. I did, however, offer an trouble with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. In the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept by using it, seeking to overcome the problem with driving, but soon was required to RPM Traxxas slash parts it directly into actually give it a look. Through the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square in the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it will come in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.